What size is your surfboard

Do you specialize or generalize?

Beginning surfers regularly learn on foam covered, soft(ish) beginner boards at surf schools. Progression after that demands choice.

Many people exclusively ride what are know as ‘longboards’ - boards that are nine feet or more long. Boards of this length fit waves in specific ways. They have their own style of being surfed. Big, sweeping turns, pivots on the tail and nose riding - think hanging 10 - are all part of a long board style.

Short board surfing? That’s a different game. These super small, high performance machines are used for performing quick, slashing turns, slapping the lip of the wave (WHA-PAH!) and launching surfers into stratospheric airs.

As I progressed as a surfer, I prided myself on being able to ride all different kinds of boards. Some days, I surfed a board under six feet long and shaped like a fish. On other waves, I pulled out one of my longboards. I wanted to surf all different boards on all different waves.

Shortboards were more satisfying. I loved whipping arou…