The swell was waning, the tide draining. The sun was an aged monarch at their platinum jubilee. Though still high in the sky, its time with us was limited. That was for later. Right now, things were clear and brilliant.

The clouds must have all called each other. They had either decided to go for a hike, or were wearing invisibility cloaks. The sky was perfectly clear.

The switch from outgoing to incoming tide seemed to turn on the ocean.

One more wave?

One more wave.

These words make people hurt their backs and miss dinner.

One more wave?

One more wave.

Into the water we went again in search of that feeling.

Oh that feeling.

It’s a combination really

Effectiveness.

Adaptability.

Excitement.

Flow.

Play.

And a feeling of good fortune. Luck. Gratitude for having the chance to surf.

Gratitude and a greedy little plea as the monarch fades. It will be dark soon

Oh please dear ocean, send me one more wave.

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