you belong at the beach
Surfers, despite popular mythology, are not laid back humans.
They tend to have an edge, be status driven and hierarchical.
The rules are moderately explicit, yet, the unwritten coeds of surfing can be confusing for many.
There is one rule that’s pretty straight forward around these parts.
When you’re learning, your lack of control makes you a hazard to yourself and others.
When you’re learning, you don’t surf crowded point breaks.
When you’re learning, you don’t belong at the premium spots.
When you’re learning, start at the beach.
Though surfing beach break is more difficult in many ways than surfing a defined point or reef, the beach allows a new surfer to thrash around.
The beach is a place to figure out how to handle all that foam.
The beach is a place to figure out how to ‘read the waves’.
The beach is a place to crash and burn without putting others at risk.
The beach is a place to learn at without having to worry about blowing up your ankle on cobble stones.
The beach is a place to experiment.
The beach is a place to build your strength.
The beach is a place to fail until you succeed.
I love surfing beach break.
Every time I want to learn how to ride a new board or discover something new about myself or my surfing, I get to the beach.
With your creative work, what’s the beach?
How can you spend more time there?
If everything is mission critical, where you need to be on, you need to perform, what would the equivalent to ‘the beach’ look like?
What else is possible?