from gentle breeze to stormy seas
are you ready to leap?
Summers at the beach are carefree and casual. When the sun’s shining, the only shortages are parking spaces. In those cases, cars line the road for miles. Smiles, tents and pack-horse parents abound.
Weekend surfers camp spend sixteen hour shifts between the sudsy ocean and the hot sand. The waves in the summer are small. Created by near by winds, these ‘windswell’ waves are high in frequency, low period, gutless creations that are best surfed on something large.
These low period waves lack power. They lack consequences. High in frequency, there are plenty to go around. Smiles abound.
When hurricane season arrives things shift. Waves are created from distant storms. Over time, the wind swell becomes organized. Smaller ripples go from wind chop, to larger wind swell. Those waves begin to shuffle into larger, more powerful ground swell.
In addition to the size and power of the waves increasing, so does the wait time in between sets.
What was abundant in a session just days earlier becomes sc…