Dropping in on a wave is like dropping a turd in a bowl

once you can do it by yourself, any improvements are trivial

Yesterday I wrote about a couple of trips to the beach. I didn’t bring any of my surf gear on the second trip. I had a lot more fun.

Reader Iain said that it “feels akin to a limited pallet exercise”, then asked:

I’m curious to know how the body surfing experience affects your surfing surfing. What, if anything, do you take back to the board?

I spent much of the day chewing on this one. Here are some of my reflections.

Ideally, I’ll be able to attach these back to the creative process so you can conect them to what you face everyday.

And, ideally I’ll find a way to make y’all laugh without resorting to poop jokes, tales of my nuts being exposed or any type of shocking / gross out humour that I love so much.¹

So. If you read the foot note, it’s too late. If you haven’t, please don’t. I think that the footnotes are going off the rails.²

Now. Back to the reflections.

The first thing I discovered when I was surfing without a board, was that in the waves, I have an eye for a wave. I know what to lo…