A drop in the ocean
a grain of sand on a beach
I haven't surfed in a while. Why would I? It’s winter. Funny thing? The winter is the greatest time of year at the beach. Without surfing, I’m missing play. I miss playing in the waves. I miss the shrieks of delight when I pull something off that I only imagined before. I love scooting ahead of a wave an instant before it closes out. Improbable take offs with my tip toes lightly touching the deck of of the board - an exercise in nudged control - executed successfully? Bliss. Just the thought of this stuff lights me up.
The adrenaline of it all is quite fun. But I really miss sitting in the water and experiencing just how powerful the ocean is. Floating there, waiting for the right wave, when a swell passes, the feeling the ocean’s pulse inspires fear and awe at the enormity of the ocean’s power. When the swell passes, you’re lifted with authority. In the ocean I really know how I’m just a very tiny speck that’s part of something much much bigger. We’re all eightyishpercent water righ…
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